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Imagine a professor saying, “A passing grade requires you to do nothing.” That’s exactly what I told the 1,500 or so drivers I taught to safely handle a tire blowout.
Blowing a tire can be scary, and resisting the urge to do something can be hard, but practice makes perfect — so I put my students to the test. With a student behind the wheel and me sitting alongside, we simulated a tire blowout or tread separation.
We did this demonstration in almost every type of vehicle, including SUVs, minivans and 18-wheelers, and no one ever lost control. So, here’s what to do if you have a tire blowout while driving (and earn yourself a passing grade).
If the driver drove straight down his lane and simply allowed the drag of the deflated tire to slow the vehicle to less than 30 mph, he earned a grade of a “B.” This is essentially “doing nothing,” and it’s a safe way to react when a tire blows out.
To get an “A,” however, you must act counterintuitively and press the accelerator for a short instant after the blowout. Because of the drag of the failed tire, even a sports car in high gear will not gain speed. Pushing the accelerator does two things. First, it stabilizes the vehicle in your lane. Second, but just as important, it helps you focus your mind and helps prevent you from turning or braking while trying to remember what to do. By the time your brain accesses the answer, you will likely have slowed almost enough to safely ease off the road. (As opposed to racetracks, where blowouts happen frequently in turns, tires frequently blow on long trips, on straight stretches of highway.)
You’ll get a failing grade if you turn the steering wheel even a little after a blowout or tread separation. This is especially true if you turn away from a failed rear tire. (For example, do not try to get to the right shoulder after a left-rear tire blows.) A slight turn will cause the vehicle to spin out faster. I know this from experience, as I was always selected to intentionally incorrectly drive a blowout for videos and testing. (My performance review included a minimum number of times to say, “Hey, y’all watch this.”)
Poor tire maintenance is one factor in a potential blowout, according to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA). Make sure your tires are inflated properly and have them rotated and balanced as outlined in your owner’s manual. Driving on underinflated tires can be especially hard on them as the components of the tire may bend beyond what they are designed to handle. Over time, the tires can weaken and fail. There are also other factors that can potentially lead to a blowout, too, such as overloading the vehicle, hitting a pothole or heat.
The best way to avoid a blowout is to keep your tires at the proper inflation pressure. Check your tire pressure once a month. Set the pressure to what the vehicle maker recommends, which you can find on a sticker on the inside of the driver’s door or in the owner’s manual. You should also visually inspect your tires to look for cracks, bulges or signs of wear, says the NHTSA. And if you notice the tires are not performing as well, are vibrating or are making noise, have them inspected by a professional.
To correctly handle a blowout, keep the wheel straight, wait for the vehicle to slow down and follow the Brits’ advice from 1939: Keep Calm and Carry On.
Originally published on July 2, 2013.
The post What to Do If You Have a Tire Blowout While Driving appeared first on The Allstate Blog.
Perhaps you’ve inherited an old family vehicle. Or, you’re about to hand down an older car to a young driver. Maybe you want a lower-priced vehicle to save some money. If so, you’re not alone. I drive an older four-door with nearly 200,000 miles on the odometer, and it’s been through two teen drivers. But with a little work and preventive maintenance, it’s reliable and safe.
I also love that it’s paid for. Trust me, the lack of car payments adds a shocking amount of beauty to a vehicle. Forget 20-inch rims and a killer sound system. Focus on safety and reliability. Stash the cash that would go to car payments. In short order, you’ll be able to afford a much nicer vehicle.
If you’re buying a used car, set aside enough money to make this new-to-you vehicle safe and reliable. If you’ve budgeted $8,000 for a purchase, for example, restrict your search to vehicles well under $7,000. If you spend the entire $8,000 up front, you won’t have money in reserve in case you run into car trouble. If you’re handing off a vehicle to a young family member, remember that you want them to be safe. Your gift comes with huge strings if the brakes are worn out, the tires bald and the transmission is shot.
Now, to the makeover. Unless the previous owner was especially conscientious or kind, you’ll probably have to replace the tires, renew the brakes and make other repairs. Consider these tips for “making over” an older car.
You won’t even need to get your hands dirty to check the condition of the tires. Insert a quarter, Washington’s head down, into the most-shallow groove of the most-worn tire. If you can see the top of George’s wig, even modestly deep water can cause hydroplaning. A brand-new car tire begins life with at least 10/32 of an inch of tread (pickup and sport-utility vehicle tires have even deeper treads). If a tire can’t pass the quarter test, it has less than 4/32 of an inch of tread and, thus, is prone to hydroplaning — so it’s time to start tire shopping. If it’s at 2/32 of an inch, consider buying new tires as soon as possible.
Also, check the tires’ sidewall for an alphanumeric code that starts with “DOT.” The last four digits indicate the tire’s birth week: 2510 means the tire was built in the 25th week of 2010. Tires can die even if they haven’t gone far or done much. Regardless of tread depth, a tire that’s been on a car or sitting in the sun for six years has probably aged significantly. New tires on an old car are a safer combination than a newer car on bald tires.
Brake inspection is more difficult, but the task is far from impossible for a do-it-yourselfer. If you can open the hood, you can check the brake fluid reservoir. (The owner’s manual will show the location.) It’s bad if the fluid is dark, and terrible if the reservoir is below the “minimum” line. If the brake fluid is low or looks like it has gone bad, get the car into a mechanic as soon as possible.
Next, if you can change a tire, you can inspect the thickness of the brake pads. Remove a wheel, lower the car onto a jack stand (and NOT a cinder block or other unsafe substitute), and look at brake pad thickness and the condition of the rotors. Be thorough and inspect all four brakes. Drum brakes, found on the rear of many vehicles, are more difficult to inspect, but it’s a job well within the capability of most DIYers.
Advanced DIYers can also bleed the brakes. There are many videos on the web that explain how to do this, but contact a professional if you’re not comfortable tackling this one yourself. If the fluid is black and contains bits of rubber or rust, the vehicle needs a professional brake job as soon as possible.
It’s also a good idea to make sure your car isn’t leaking any fluids. To check for leaks, slide a slab of cardboard underneath your car and let it sit overnight. Except for water that drips from the air conditioner, the cardboard should be dry.
Any fluid that smells and feels like petroleum indicates there is a problem with the car that needs to be addressed.
Fluid that smells like pancake syrup (coolant) indicates a problem with the cooling system: This could range from a loose hose clamp to the rattling of a water pump that’s about to go kaput.
Coolant can come in various colors, including green, yellow, orange, red or even blue — and it’s important to make sure you replace your coolant with the proper type, as using the wrong kind can damage your car. Other fluids may indicate other issues. Mark where the cardboard sat, and the problem can be diagnosed by a mechanic.
Engine oil is another indicator of a car’s health. Look at the oil on the dipstick: Dark black is a bad sign. Also, check the underside of the oil filler cap: If it’s covered with baked-on crud, the previous owner rarely changed the oil. Those who can change oil should do so, or take it to a professional. If the oil comes out dark and lumpy, it’s possible to rescue this unfortunate situation with a series of 500-mile oil changes, but check with your mechanic for recommendations.
In the same manner, check the fluid on the automatic transmission dipstick. If it looks dark, it’s bad. Checking and renewing transmission fluid is best left to pros. Tell the technician that this is a new-to-you vehicle and you want a report on the condition of the fluid.
A new car battery will not only make sure the vehicle starts in cold weather but will also help the starter and alternator last longer. So, it may be a good idea to check out the car’s battery and consider replacing it. Check that the cables and terminals fit tightly and that there are no signs of corrosion, says Consumer Reports. If the connections are dirty or have signs of corrosion, disconnect the battery and use a wire brush to clean them.
If the previous few paragraphs were intimidating, take the vehicle to a professional mechanic for a thorough inspection. Even if you’re a pretty good DIY mechanic, have a professional inspect the steering gear, suspension and alignment. Worn or misaligned suspension will quickly wear out those new tires, and a suspension failure can be bad news.
The plastic that many vehicle manufacturers use often clouds over time. Sunlight and age can make headlight covers foggy, and the light shining through can be hazy. For my old beast, some lens polishing treatments did little to brighten the headlights, and they were soon back to opaque. Consider replacing the entire lens assemblies. New headlight assemblies will make the car look younger than it really is. More importantly, they’ll also help with visibility.
Auto racing organizations limit how long seat belts can be used on race cars. In highway vehicles, sun can deteriorate the belts and food can gum up the latching mechanism. I replaced the driver’s belts because they were frayed, and the latch didn’t immediately snap into place. You may want to consider having the seat belts replaced, especially if they are not working well.
Now that your older car is safe and healthy, you may want to make a few cosmetic upgrades if you have a few dollars left over. I found a new set of brand-correct wheel covers online for less than $100, including shipping, while generic covers can be had for $30 a set. They’re not as cool as $2,000 new wheels, but they still cut years from the car’s apparent age. Also, a serious detailing — which can include everything from shampooing the interior to hand waxing the exterior — is about $200 and will allow you to pretend you have a new ride — but without the monthly payments.
Whether you’re buying a used car or want to keep your older vehicle for a few more years, some preventive maintenance and a few upgrades can help keep it running well and looking good. With a few updates and upgrades, you can have a safe and reliable vehicle.
Originally posted on January 2, 2014.
The post Upgrades and Upkeep for Older Cars appeared first on The Allstate Blog.
Winter storms can be unpredictable, and sometimes dangerous — especially if you’re driving. Before you hit the road this winter, here are a few tips on how to prepare for inclement weather and what to do if you need to survive a night in your car.
In general, it’s best to stay off the road when severe winter weather is predicted. It may sound harrowing, but about 70 percent of winter weather-related injuries occur in an automobile, and about 25 percent of injuries happen to people caught out in a storm, National Severe Storms Laboratory (NSSL) reports. According to Ready.gov, the cold of a winter storm can increase the risk of frostbite and hypothermia. Combating the rain, snow, wind and ice could lead to overexertion from shoveling snow and car accidents due to dangerous driving conditions.
In addition to paying attention to weather reports on TV, radio and the internet, Ready.gov suggests making sure your cellphone is set up to receive wireless emergency alerts. Weather alerts, which are part of the Integrated Public Alert and Warning System, are similar to text messages and notify you of serious weather conditions and recommended actions. You can also tune into your local NOAA Weather Radio station for continuous weather broadcasts, official watches, warnings and more.
It’s generally a good idea to winterize your car every year before winter weather rolls around. A tune up, properly inflated tires, new windshield wiper blades and topped-off fluids may help prepare your car for the lower temperatures and help it better handle inclement weather. And it’s a good idea to keep a fully stocked winter emergency kit in your car, just in case. Some items to include are:
However, an emergency kit and winterizing your vehicle don’t guarantee safety in a storm. If your area is under a winter storm warning, it is best to stay off the road. If you’re already on the road, seek shelter right away if inclement weather is approaching and driving conditions are expected to be hazardous. You may also want to share information about your trip before you leave. Tell a friend or family member your destination, your planned route and when you expect to arrive, recommends the American Red Cross. That way, if your vehicle gets stuck, they will know where to tell the authorities to send help.
If you’re stuck in your car and immobile, you’ll typically have a better chance of being found if you remain with your car — which may also provide the best shelter from the elements. Here are some important tips to help you survive the night.
Even if you’re unsure if the situation is a true emergency, 911.gov recommends dialing 911.
After you’ve called for help, stay in your vehicle and wait, says the Red Cross. Do not leave the car, as blowing snow may cause you to become disoriented and lost.
While you wait for help or wait out the storm, the American Red Cross suggests signaling that you need help. For example, raise the hood after the snow stops falling or, if you have a radio antenna, add a piece of colored fabric, preferably red, to it. Weather.com recommends turning on your hazard lights, and you may also want to set out reflectors from your emergency kit.
Inside the car, do light exercises — such as moving your arms and legs, and clapping your hands — to maintain circulation. If another person is in the car with you, huddle for warmth. Use extra layers, such as removable floor mats or even a paper map, to help trap more body heat, the American Red Cross advises.
You can also run the engine for about 10 minutes every house to keep warm, says the Red Cross. Only run the engine for short amounts of time and ensure that the exhaust pipe is clear of snow to help reduce the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning.
This will help you avoid dehydration, which makes you more susceptible to the potential health hazards of cold weather, according to the American Red Cross. The Colorado Department of Transportation recommends keeping a gallon of water in your vehicle.
Hopefully you stay safe and warm during a winter storm, but it’s always a good idea to be ready, just in case. With these tips, you can better prepare for handling a winter storm and surviving a cold night in your car.
Originally published on November 3, 2016.
The post How to Survive a Winter Night in Your Car appeared first on The Allstate Blog.
Blown-out tire treads lying on the road are known in the trucking industry as “road gators.” When you’re driving down the highway, the textured rubber of a tire tread lying flat in your lane can almost look like the ridges and scales on the back of an alligator lying in wait. Road gators can happen at any time, especially on interstates where the speed limit is 70 or 75 mph. Most motorists notice road gators safely sunning themselves on highway shoulders but sometimes, they end up in the travel lane, so it’s a good idea to keep an eye out so you can avoid them.
A road gator’s bite may surpass that of a its namesake, slicing open oil pans, ripping off steering components, smashing through windshields and causing panicked drivers to lose control of their vehicles, attempting to avoid the beasts.
Here’s some information on why road gators occur and what steps to take if a vehicle loses its tire tread in front of you on the highway.
Low tire pressure causes a majority of tire failures, according to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA). Another cause is damage from smacking curbs, potholes and road hazards. To help avoid creating baby road gators, the NHTSA suggests that drivers check tire pressure with a quality tire gauge before every trip, never exceed the weight limit of the vehicle or its tires, avoid road hazards and regularly inspect tires for cuts or other damage.
Driving any distance on a flat or severely underinflated tire may severely damage the tire. For vehicles with tires in pairs — heavy trucks, recreational vehicles, dually pickups — continuing to drive with one flat tire may cause damage to its mate: Tires are paired to help expand load-carry capability, not for extended mobility.
Summer is known as prime road gator season because heat can be one of a tire’s biggest enemies. Underinflation, high speeds and uneven highways can combine to increase heat in a tire. Overheating breaks down the tire’s internal components — both fabric and the bonds between different layers and types of rubber. Soon, another road gator will be born.
Here’s what passenger vehicle drivers can do to help avoid road gators.
Seeing road gators is part of highway driving these days, but remember that they can be dangerous if they are in your driving path. If you can spot them early and learn how to safely maneuver around them, you may help prevent an accident or vehicle damage. Remember these tips to help avoid road gators so that you get to your destination safely.
Originally published on June 19, 2014.
The post Don’t Let Road Gators Bite: Tips for Avoiding Tire Debris appeared first on The Allstate Blog.
If your vehicle’s windshield gets chipped or cracked, should you repair or replace it? Regardless of where you live, your windshield may take a beating. There could be pea gravel falling from uncovered construction trucks, sanitation vehicles laying down salt and sand when the weather calls for it and the occasional chunk of unknown debris kicked up by cars passing by.
I once had a pigeon fatally misjudge the 18-wheeler I was following under an overpass and fall onto my windshield. I thought my whole windshield was going to come down on me. It’s amazing that windshields survive as long as they do.
No matter the cause, it’s important to repair or replace your windshield after it has been damaged to help ensure it doesn’t get worse. Whether you need to fix a small ding or replace the whole windshield, here’s what you need to know about a damaged windshield
The good news is that smaller chips and cracks can usually be repaired by a professional for a reasonable fee, according to Edmunds. If the chip or crack can be covered by a dollar bill, Safelite Auto Glass says it’s typically safe to repair.
However, if the chip is directly in the driver’s line of sight, there are more than three cracks or chips on the glass, the damage is at the edge of the windshield or the windshield is old and covered with tiny divots, it should be replaced rather than repaired, says Safelite. According to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, the windshield serves as an important structural part in many vehicles that contributes to the overall strength of the car — this is why it’s important to repair cracks before they grow and your windshield must be completely replaced.
The repair process works by injecting a special resin into the chipped area. For cracks, holes may be drilled at the ends of the crack to help prevent it from spreading. Windshields are made of three layers: A layer of resin or polymer is sandwiched between two layers of glass, says Popular Mechanics. Drilling to, but not through, the plastic takes an experienced hand.
If your windshield can be repaired, do it immediately. A small chip can spread across the windshield if you hit a big pothole, drive on a bumpy road or make an aggressive turn, says Glass.com. And, most states make it illegal to drive a car with a cracked windshield, says the Insurance Information Institute. If you’re on the road away from home, a repair company can typically come to you.
If you’re comfortable doing so, you can attempt to repair the chip or crack yourself. There are many do-it-yourself repair kits available at auto parts stores, and they often replicate the resin injection technique of the professionals. The difference, of course, is the quality of the tools and materials as well as the training and expertise of the person administering the repair. Because these kits may not perfectly replicate a professional repair, you might want to consider using them on chips that are located in an inconspicuous area, like the bottom right corner of the passenger side.
Remember, a key function of the repair is to help prevent the crack or chip from expanding or spreading, and also to help restore some of the structural integrity of the glass. If you’re unsure about any aspect of the DIY repair process, consider hiring a professional.
The takeaway: Repair if possible and logical. Replace if you must. And consider using a professional for best results.
Originally published on May 29, 2016.
The post Chips and Cracks: When to Repair or Replace a Damaged Windshield appeared first on The Allstate Blog.
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