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Filed under: Chevrolet,Automotive History,Sedan
Continue reading Junkyard Gem: Customized 1994 Chevrolet Caprice Classic LS Sedan
Junkyard Gem: Customized 1994 Chevrolet Caprice Classic LS Sedan originally appeared on Autoblog on Mon, 27 May 2024 13:00:00 EDT. Please see our terms for use of feeds.
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Filed under: Chevrolet,Automotive History,Commercial Vehicles,Sedan
Continue reading Junkyard Gem: 2014 Chevrolet Impala Limited
Junkyard Gem: 2014 Chevrolet Impala Limited originally appeared on Autoblog on Wed, 8 May 2024 17:15:00 EDT. Please see our terms for use of feeds.
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If you’re thinking about buying used tires for your vehicle, there are some important points to consider. When a tire is between six and 10 years old, its rubber and internal components will begin to get dry rot. (If there is dry rot, you’ll notice cracks in the treads, discoloration and that the tire is misshapen, says Car and Driver.) Tires can degrade and weaken even if they haven’t gone very far or done much. For example, a 9-year-old car may only have 10,000 miles on the odometer, but it might need new tires.
When a tire needs to be replaced depends on several factors, according to Edmunds, including how it is used (such as not being inflated properly), exposure to heat and how it was stored. Here are a few things to keep in mind if you’re considering buying used tires or are wondering if you should replace older tires:
It can be difficult to accurately determine age-related tire damage. That’s because the conditions in a climate-controlled warehouse help prevent a tire from deteriorating. However, one left in the sun on display may be almost worn out inside before it’s mounted on a vehicle. And, the ones I put in the cool crawl space under my house in garbage bags are somewhere in between. Still, some car makers recommend replacing tires that are between six and 10 years old, regardless of how much tread is left, says the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA).
Almost every driver can find out a tire’s age just by decoding numbers on the tire. Your tire’s “born-on date” is on its sidewall, part of the government-required Tire Identification Number (TIN), according to NHTSA. The TIN is an alphanumeric code that begins with “DOT” (the abbreviation for the Department of Transportation). The last four digits indicate the week and year in which the tire was made. A TIN ending in 0112 means the tire was made in the first week of 2012. (If the DOT code ends with a letter or contains less than 10 digits, check the opposite sidewall. If you can’t find such a number or it has been ground off, assume the tire is far too old for safe use.)
While there is no way to track the history of a used tire, it’s safe to assume it likely was driven without being inflated properly, as the NHTSA states that only 19 percent of people have inflated their vehicle’s tires properly. Also, a used tire could have suffered significant damage from a pothole, been repaired improperly or permanently damaged when being dismounted. Because these factors may affect a tire’s safety, Consumer Reports advises against buying used tires. But if you do, make sure to have the used tire properly inspected by a tire professional before purchase and installation.
If you’ve just acquired a used car and encounter otherwise untraceable issues with tire wear, handling, excessive noise or the like, check to make sure all four tires were produced at the same plant at about the same time. It’s ideal if the TINs are identical on all four tires and, if applicable, the spare.
Tire manufacturers often make changes during production runs and sometimes produce the same product in multiple plants. A tire made a couple of years after or in a different plant than its otherwise visually identical sibling may have subtle but important differences. Check the plant code, which is immediately after DOT on the TIN. You can use the plant code to find where your tire was built at the NHTSA’s Product Information Catalog and Vehicle Listing.
Remember to check your spare tire, too. (You may find you don’t have one!) It’s possible to have a spare that’s never touched the ground but is so old that it should not be used. And finally, to help ensure your tires are properly inflated, the NHTSA recommends that you check the pressure of all your tires (even the spare) monthly.
Originally published on September 22, 2014.
The post Tires Can Wear Out Even If They Haven’t Gone Very Far appeared first on The Allstate Blog.
For newer vehicles, particularly German makes, manufacturers are increasingly ditching the transmission dipstick in favor of electronic oil level monitoring. Others may employ a fluid level plug hole on the bottom of the pan.
2013 Ford Fusion transmission oil leveling plug hole. (Courtesy Ford Motor Co.)
In other cases, such as the 2009 Suzuki Equator, the transmission oil dipstick exists but it’s not easy to find! First, it is not a traditional dipstick, sticking out where you can see it. It is a plug with a mounting bolt — you’d never know it is there. Often the owner’s manual will show the location of the dipstick, if one exists.
Today’s vehicles have longer maintenance intervals, and the emphasis is on keeping the system sealed to avoid the damage that debris, the wrong oil, and even air and moisture can wreak. In exchange, with electronic oil level monitoring, issues may arise when varnishing reduces the effectiveness of an in-sump sensor, for example.
1. Use the correct fluid – Non-recommended fluids can cause erratic shifts, slippage, abnormal wear, and eventual failure, due to fluid breakdown and sludge formation.
2. Cleanliness – Wipe the dipstick cap and fill tube clean before checking fluid level. Dirt, grease, and other foreign material on the cap and tube could fall into the tube, if not removed beforehand. Use a clean funnel when adding fluid.
3. Incorrect fluid level – A low fluid level allows the pump to take in air along with the fluid. Air in the fluid will cause fluid pressures to be low and develop slower than normal. If the transmission is overfilled, the gears churn the fluid into foam. This aerates the fluid and causes the same conditions occurring with a low level. In either case, air bubbles cause fluid overheating, oxidation, and varnish buildup which interferes with valve and clutch operation. Foaming also causes fluid expansion which can result in fluid overflow from the transmission vent or fill tube. Fluid overflow can easily be mistaken for a leak if inspection is not careful. (via Chrysler)
4. Transmission fluid additives, treatments or cleaning agents – may affect transmission operation and can result in damage to internal transmission components.
5. When to check – Your transmission is not designed to consume fluid. However, check the fluid level if the transmission is not working properly, (eg, if the transmission slips or shifts slowly) or if you notice some sign of fluid leakage.
Planning to service or repair your vehicle? Chilton can help! Access procedures, specifications, tips, and more at ChiltonDIY.com.
Most of us have experienced driving in cold weather and our share of breakdowns. Usually a breakdown is due to the neglect of our vehicle; I’m just as guilty as the next guy. We’re busy people! Things we neglect that can cause us to have problems, especially in the winter months:
• Battery
• Antifreeze
• Engine oil
• Window washer fluid
• Wiper blades
• Tires
Here are 6 simple things we can do to help save us from a winter breakdown:
1. Load test the battery. Check and clean the battery connections.
2. Check the condition, strength, and level of the antifreeze. Replace if needed.
Antifreeze concentration test.
3. Check the engine oil condition and level. Replace the engine oil and filter if needed.
Engine oil dipstick location on a Dodge truck.
Checking the level of the engine oil on the dipstick.
4. Refill the window washer bottle and check the spray operation.
Windshield washer bottle.
5. Inspect and replace the wiper blades as needed.
Check the condition of the windshield wiper blades.
6. Inspect the tires for tread wear and pressure; rotate if needed.
Check the tread of the tires for wear.
Check the tire pressure.
Refer to Chilton’s online repair manuals to help keep your vehicle in top shape. Check out ChiltonDIY for repair procedures, maintenance intervals, wiring diagrams, technical service bulletins, Recalls, and more.
Draining and refilling the coolant is one of the easier maintenance tasks you can do on most vehicles. In addition to saving money, doing your own maintenance is a way to monitor the health of your vehicle.
Coolant loses effectiveness over time, so it’s important to periodically drain and refill the cooling system. In addition, as coolant becomes dirty, and rust and particles can eventually degrade cooling system components, such as the engine and water pump.
If you drain the system and then pour coolant in, there is still air trapped within the hoses and components that hold coolant. That air must be removed. You’ll need to bleed out the air and then top off the coolant to the proper level.
Some car manufacturer refill procedures use a special tool that automatically fills the cooling system and bleeds any excess air. In most cases, if you don’t have the special tool, you can still fill the cooling system and bleed it manually. In rare cases, vehicles need to be serviced with specialized cooling system equipment, due to the complexity of the cooling system. Air will become trapped in the cooling system, and cause the engine to overheat! Check the service information before you attempt the procedure.
Research the vehicle’s cooling system.
Caution
Do not work on the coolant system when the system is hot and under pressure: Coolant can cause serious burns. Do not remove the radiator cap, cylinder block drain plugs, or loosen the radiator draincock, when the engine is hot.
1. Tighten the radiator draincock.
Tighten the radiator draincock. 2010 Chevrolet HHR shown. Image: General Motors
2. Tighten the cylinder block drain plug(s).
Tighten the engine block drain plug. 2010 Chevrolet HRR shown. Image: General Motors.
3. Fill the cooling system with the manufacturer-specified antifreeze. You can find the correct specification in your Chilton DIY subscription or in your owner’s manual. Because specifications change occasionally, such as with new technology, it’s a good idea to check the technical service bulletins in your ChiltonDIY subscription too.
4. Fill the radiator to the top and install the radiator cap. Add sufficient coolant to the overflow tank to raise the level to the FULL mark. Check your Chilton DIY specifications or the owner’s manual for the coolant amount including the overflow tank.
Fill the radiator to the top and install the radiator cap. 2010 Chevrolet HHR shown. Image: General Motors.
5. Run the engine with both the radiator cap and reservoir/overflow tank cap in place. Turn on the heat with the blower on high. When the engine reaches normal operating temperature, shut the engine off and allow it to cool.
6. Top off the coolant level to the reserve/overflow tank as necessary to bring it to the FULL mark. Only add coolant when the engine is cold. The coolant level in a warm engine will be higher due to thermal expansion – that is, hot coolant expands and so the coolant level will appear to be higher.
7. Repeat the procedure and recheck the cooling system level.
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